Pakistan’s Northern Areas have always been a sacred place for the author. In August 2018, the author went on a 12-day tour of the North with her mother. The trip brought back memories of her childhood spent exploring the beauty of Pakistan's natural landscapes. While the author longs for the world to see the beauty of Pakistan, she also desires to keep it secluded for herself. This article explores the author's experience of discovering the majesty of Pakistan's Northern Areas and provides a recipe for deep-fried trout, a dish commonly found in the region.
Discovering the Natural Beauty of Pakistan's Northern Areas
The author's earliest memories of life involve seeing her father navigate the unpaved terrains of Pakistan's Northern Areas in their 4-wheel Land Cruiser. The author and her brother watched from the back seat as her father expertly steered the car on narrow cliffs, with no safety or rails to keep them from plunging down into the rapid waters of the Kunhar River. Despite the dangers posed by the forces of unbridled Mother Nature, her father was unafraid and determined to explore the majestic beauty of Pakistan with his family.
As a teenager, the author had traveled to most of the cities and valleys in Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa, gazing upon the awe-inspiring and unrivaled beauty of the world's highest mountain ranges — Karakoram, Himalaya, and Hindu Kush. However, it was only when the author left Pakistan, grew older, and went in search of her Pakistani self that she realized how fortunate she was to grow up there. She had seen first-hand the exquisite and untouched natural splendor of one of the most misunderstood countries in the world.
During her 12-day tour of the North, the author and her mother visited Naran, Hunza Valley, Gilgit, Shogran Valley, Abbottabad, Murree, and Nathiagali. The tour brought back memories of the places her father had taken the family when she was a child. From Naran, they took a Jeep up to Lake Saiful Muluk, the highest lake in Pakistan. The 9km Jeep ride up the mountain was as treacherous as the author remembered, while her 53-year-old mother recited Bismillahs next to her like a broken record as they did their best not to look out the windows.
Once at the lake, they were greeted by local shop owners inviting them to sample their samosas, pakoras, and chai. The author and her mother obliged, and sitting on charpais sipping piping hot, meethi chai, they reminisced about their lives. Her mother told her how scared she had been on some of the trips her father took them on when she was a kid, but after the dangerous journeys, she always felt the risks had been worth the rewards.
The author and her mother had a bona fide, Pakistani trout for dinner that evening, caught and cooked right in front of their eyes as they sat on the bank of the Kunhar River. Listening to the gentle breeze of the wind and the calm flow of the river, they looked off into the distance, lost in their own thoughts and memories. The author longed for people to see and know Pakistan as she had always known it, but there was a part of her that wanted to keep the Pakistan of her childhood preserved just for herself; pristine and unspoiled.
Deep Fried Trout Recipe
Deep-fried trout is a simple recipe meant to highlight the natural flavors of freshwater trout. It only uses a few ingredients and can be enjoyed with a pot of desi brewed chai on the side.
Ingredients:
1.5 lb whole freshwater trout
1/2–3/4 teaspoon salt
1 heaped teaspoon red chili powder (preferably Kashmiri chili powder)
Vegetable/canola oil (for deep frying)Preparation:
- Clean the trout and remove its guts. You can ask the fishmonger to do this, or follow a guide like the one on Serious Eats.
- Cut the fish into 4-5 pieces lengthwise and lay them flat (meaty side up) on a platter.
- Generously season the fish with salt and red chili powder, and let it marinate for 10-15 minutes.
- Heat vegetable or canola oil in a deep wok, about 3 inches deep.
- Once the oil is hot, carefully place the trout pieces into the oil, one by one, using tongs or a slotted spoon.
- Fry the trout until they are golden brown and crispy, which should take around 8-10 minutes.
- Remove the trout pieces from the oil using tongs or a slotted spoon, and place them on a paper towel-lined plate to remove any excess oil.
- Serve hot with a side of desi brewed chai. Enjoy!
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